French and based in Vancouver since 2014, Julien Mainguy is the co-founder of Best of France. Passionate about the cultural difference between Canada and Europe, he is leading numerous projects to create awareness, help people grow, and bring communities together.
The Dukes' Legacy
Dijon carries itself with quiet confidence—the assurance of a city that once ruled one of Europe's most powerful states. As the former capital of the Duchy of Burgundy, Dijon commanded territories stretching from the North Sea to Switzerland during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Dukes of Burgundy rivalled French kings in wealth, power, and cultural sophistication, leaving behind architectural treasures that still define the city's character today.
Walking through Dijon's exceptionally preserved historic centre—protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2015—feels like touring an open-air museum where every building tells stories of medieval grandeur and Renaissance refinement. Yet unlike some preserved cities that feel frozen in time, Dijon pulses with contemporary energy as Burgundy's modern capital, home to 160,000 residents and a thriving university that keeps the atmosphere young and dynamic.
The city's layout reflects its ducal past, with grand boulevards radiating from the Palais des Ducs (Palace of the Dukes), now housing city offices and the magnificent Musée des Beaux-Arts. This palace complex, continuously expanded over six centuries, represents one of France's finest examples of medieval and classical architecture existing in harmonious conversation.
Architectural Splendor at Every Corner
Dijon's architectural wealth extends far beyond its famous palace. The historic centre contains over 100 protected buildings and monuments, creating a density of architectural interest that rewards aimless wandering as much as purposeful sightseeing.
The Rue des Forges exemplifies Dijon's architectural layering, where medieval half-timbered houses stand beside Gothic townhouses and Renaissance hôtels particuliers (private mansions). The street's most famous resident, the Maison Millière, dates to 1483 and features elaborate wood carvings that have survived five centuries remarkably intact. Today it houses a restaurant where diners enjoy traditional Burgundian cuisine surrounded by medieval authenticity.
The Notre-Dame de Dijon represents one of Burgundy's finest examples of Gothic architecture. Built in the 13th century, this church features the famous Jacquemart clock on its exterior—a 14th-century mechanical marvel where automated figures strike the hours. Inside, pilgrims and tourists alike touch the small owl (chouette) carved into an exterior buttress, a centuries-old tradition believed to bring good luck and grant wishes. This owl has become Dijon's unofficial mascot, with its image appearing throughout the city.
The Église Saint-Michel showcases the transition from Gothic to Renaissance, its flamboyant facade featuring three distinct architectural styles stacked vertically. This church, begun in the 15th century and completed in the 17th, demonstrates how Dijon evolved architecturally while maintaining aesthetic coherence.
Wine: The Liquid Gold of Burgundy
To understand Dijon requires understanding Burgundy wine culture, arguably the most complex and prestigious wine region on earth. While Bordeaux produces more wine and Champagne sparkles with celebrity, Burgundy commands respect among connoisseurs for producing wines of extraordinary subtlety, complexity, and terroir expression.
The Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, opened in 2022 in a beautifully restored former hospital complex, represents Dijon's commitment to celebrating and educating visitors about wine and food culture. This state-of-the-art facility offers interactive exhibitions explaining Burgundy's climats—the precisely delineated vineyard parcels that produce wines of distinct character. Understanding climats is essential to appreciating Burgundy, where a few meters can separate a good wine from a legendary grand cru. Learn more about visiting this innovative space at the official Cité website.
The Côte d'Or (Golden Slope) begins just south of Dijon, stretching 60 kilometers through the world's most valuable agricultural land. Villages with legendary names—Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet—dot the slopes where single vineyard parcels can sell for millions of euros per hectare. Many of these villages lie within a 20-minute drive of Dijon, making the city an ideal base for wine tourism.
Dijon's wine bars and caves offer opportunities to taste Burgundy's treasures without vineyard visits. La Cave de la Cloche and Le Millésime feature extensive Burgundy selections by the glass, allowing exploration of different appellations, vintages, and styles. Knowledgeable staff guide tastings, explaining the subtle differences between neighboring vineyards that produce dramatically different wines from identical grape varieties.
The city hosts prestigious wine events throughout the year. The Dijon International Gastronomic Fair each autumn attracts hundreds of exhibitors showcasing Burgundian products. The Ventes des Hospices de Beaune, while centered in nearby Beaune, brings wine professionals worldwide to the region each November for the year's most important Burgundy wine auction.
Gastronomic Excellence
Dijon takes food as seriously as wine, with a culinary heritage extending well beyond its famous mustard. The city's gastronomic reputation rests on Burgundian classics that emphasize quality ingredients, patient preparation, and rich flavours that pair perfectly with local wines.
Boeuf bourguignon, perhaps Burgundy's most famous dish, reaches perfection in Dijon's traditional restaurants where recipes passed through generations produce versions that transcend the beef stew found elsewhere. Coq au vin, oeufs en meurette (poached eggs in red wine sauce), and jambon persillé (ham in parsley aspic) represent other regional specialties that showcase Burgundian culinary philosophy: transform simple ingredients through technique, time, and wine into something sublime.
Escargots de Bourgogne prepared with garlic, parsley, and butter have been elevated to an art form in Dijon. Local restaurants serve them sizzling in specialized ceramic dishes, the butter-garlic sauce demanding crusty bread for sopping. While snails appear throughout France, Burgundy's preparation method has become the standard by which others are judged.
Époisses, arguably France's most pungent cheese, comes from just 60 kilometers away. This washed-rind cow's milk cheese, so strong that it's allegedly banned on French public transportation, appears on every serious cheese board in Dijon. Its powerful aroma belies a creamy, complex flavor that pairs beautifully with crusty bread and robust red Burgundy wines. Discover more about this legendary cheese and where to taste it at France's official tourism site.
The covered market at Les Halles, designed by Gustave Eiffel in 1873, operates Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday mornings. This beautiful iron-and-glass structure houses vendors selling regional cheeses, charcuterie, fresh produce, and prepared foods that showcase Burgundian terroir. The market atmosphere—bustling, fragrant, decidedly local—provides authentic immersion in daily Dijonnais life.
Mustard: A Condiment's Story
Yes, we must discuss Dijon mustard, though the reality proves more complex than most visitors expect. The condiment that bears Dijon's name rarely originates here anymore, with most production occurring elsewhere in France or abroad. However, Dijon maintains its association with quality mustard through protected regulations governing what can bear the city's name.
True Dijon mustard must follow specific recipes using brown or black mustard seeds, white wine or verjuice (unripe grape juice), water, and salt—no fillers, thickeners, or artificial colours. The result is smooth, sharp, and considerably more complex than yellow American mustard. The absence of turmeric (which gives American mustard its yellow colour) means authentic Dijon ranges from pale yellow to beige.
La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot in nearby Beaune offers the only remaining traditional stone-ground mustard mill in Burgundy. Their museum and boutique showcase mustard-making heritage through antique equipment and tastings of flavoured varieties. While not in Dijon proper, this family-run operation represents authentic Burgundian mustard culture better than mass-market brands.
In Dijon itself, La Moutarderie boutique on Rue de la Liberté offers dozens of artisanal mustard varieties—from classic strong Dijon to creative flavors incorporating local ingredients like Burgundy wine, blackcurrants, or pain d'épices spices. These make excellent souvenirs that actually represent local craftsmanship.
The Museum of Fine Arts: Hidden Masterpiece
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon, housed within the Palace of the Dukes, ranks among France's finest provincial art museums yet remains surprisingly uncrowded compared to Parisian equivalents. This museum, completely renovated and reopened in stages through 2019, presents centuries of European art in a setting that's itself a masterpiece.
The museum's greatest treasures are the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy—Philip the Bold and John the Fearless with their wives. These elaborate 15th-century monuments feature dozens of "mourners"—small carved figures in various poses of grief that represent medieval sculpture at its finest. The craftsmanship, emotional expression, and preservation of these works justify the museum visit alone.
Collections span from ancient Egypt through contemporary art, with particularly strong holdings in medieval and Renaissance works. The free admission (except for temporary exhibitions) makes this world-class museum accessible to all visitors. Plan at least two hours to appreciate the highlights, though serious art enthusiasts could spend an entire day exploring the extensive collections.
Parks and Green Spaces
Dijon's commitment to quality of life manifests in its abundant parks and gardens that provide respite from urban density while maintaining the city's aesthetic standards.
Jardin Darcy, located near the train station, offers the first impression of Dijon for arriving travellers. This formal 19th-century park features an elaborate fountain, geometric flower beds, and mature trees that provide welcome shade during summer. The park commemorates Henry Darcy, the engineer who brought clean water to Dijon through an innovative aqueduct system.
Parc de la Colombière, designed by the same landscape architect who created Versailles' gardens, stretches across 33 hectares of English-style parkland perfect for jogging, cycling, or leisurely strolls. Ancient trees, open meadows, and winding paths create varied landscapes within walking distance of the city center. The park hosts outdoor concerts during summer, when Dijonnais gather for picnics and evening performances.
The Jardin de l'Arquebuse combines botanical gardens with natural history museum, showcasing 3,500 plant species in thematic gardens. This scientific garden, established in the 16th century, serves both educational and recreational purposes, offering peaceful walks through collections that span medicinal plants to exotic species.
Modern Dijon: Innovation and Sustainability
While deeply rooted in history, Dijon embraces innovation, particularly in urban sustainability and smart city technology. The city has become a testing ground for intelligent traffic management, energy efficiency, and environmental initiatives that attract international attention.
Dijon's tram network, inaugurated in 2012, exemplifies thoughtful urban planning that preserves historic character while improving mobility. The sleek trams navigate narrow medieval streets without overhead wires in the historic centre, using ground-level power supply technology. This system connects neighbourhoods efficiently while reducing car traffic in the protected historic core.
The city pioneered intelligent street lighting that adjusts brightness based on pedestrian presence, reducing energy consumption by 65%. Traffic lights synchronize with public transportation, prioritizing trams and buses to improve efficiency. These innovations, implemented through Dijon's OnDijon smart city project, demonstrate how historic cities can modernize sustainably.
Bicycle infrastructure has expanded dramatically, with dedicated lanes, bike-sharing stations, and secure parking encouraging two-wheeled transportation. Dijon ranks among France's most bike-friendly cities, with flat terrain and compact size making cycling practical for residents and visitors alike.
Practical Travel Information
Dijon's strategic location makes it easily accessible and an excellent base for exploring Burgundy and eastern France. The city lies on major rail lines connecting Paris (90 minutes by TGV high-speed train), Lyon (under 2 hours), and Switzerland. This connectivity attracts weekend visitors from Paris and international travelers using Dijon as a Burgundy hub.
Accommodation options range from international chains to charming boutique hotels in converted historic buildings. Hôtel des Ducs occupies a restored 17th-century building steps from the palace, offering modern comfort with period details. La Maison Philippe le Bon, named after the duke who built the palace tower, provides luxury accommodations in an authentic historic setting.
The compact historic centre makes Dijon eminently walkable. Most major sites lie within 15 minutes' walk of each other, though comfortable shoes are essential for cobblestone streets. The well-designed pedestrian zones eliminate car traffic from the most atmospheric areas, creating a pleasant environment for exploration.
The Dijon City Pass offers excellent value for visitors, providing unlimited public transportation, museum admission, and discounts at participating restaurants and shops. Available for 24, 48, or 72 hours, the pass simplifies logistics while encouraging exploration beyond obvious tourist sites. Purchase online or at the tourist office for immediate activation.
Local restaurants range from traditional Burgundian bistros serving classic regional dishes to innovative contemporary establishments reimagining terroir through modern techniques. Le Pré aux Clercs and Restaurant DZ'envies represent high-end dining showcasing Burgundy's finest ingredients, while Chez Léon and Le Bistrot des Halles offer authentic atmosphere and generous portions at moderate prices.
Wine Route Adventures
Dijon's position at the northern edge of the Côte d'Or makes it an ideal starting point for exploring Burgundy's legendary wine villages. While many visitors base themselves in Beaune, 45 kilometres south, Dijon offers superior urban amenities, cultural attractions, and easier transportation connections while remaining close to prestigious appellations.
The Route des Grands Crus, a 60-kilometre scenic drive through the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, passes through villages that read like a wine lover's dream: Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges. Each village warrants stops at domaines (wineries) offering tastings, though advance reservations are increasingly necessary at prestigious estates. For planning your wine route journey, consult the official Burgundy wine tourism site.
Organized wine tours departing from Dijon remove the logistical challenges and designated driver dilemma. Companies like Authentic Burgundy Tours and Burgundy Discovery offer half-day and full-day excursions visiting multiple domaines, often including lunch at local restaurants paired with estate wines. These guided experiences provide context, insider access, and transportation while allowing full appreciation of the wines tasted.
For independent travellers, renting a car or bicycle offers flexibility for self-guided exploration. The gentle slopes and well-marked routes make cycling viable for reasonably fit riders, with electric bikes providing assistance for hillier sections. Many domaines welcome cyclists, and the unhurried pace allows genuine appreciation of the landscape that produces these extraordinary wines.
Seasonal Considerations
Dijon rewards visits year-round, though each season offers distinct advantages and atmospheres that attract different types of travellers.
Spring (April-May) brings mild weather and flowering landscapes without summer crowds. Vineyard workers tend emerging vines, and restaurants transition to lighter seasonal menus featuring asparagus, spring vegetables, and fresh herbs. Easter markets and festivals activate public spaces with local crafts and foods.
Summer (June-August) offers warm temperatures perfect for outdoor dining, evening strolls, and day trips to swimming spots in surrounding countryside. The Estivales summer festival fills streets with free concerts, performances, and cultural events. However, this represents peak tourist season with correspondingly higher prices and busier attractions.
Autumn (September-November) showcases Burgundy at its most beautiful and significant. Grape harvest (vendanges) typically occurs late September through early October, when vineyards buzz with activity and fresh grape juice appears at markets. Fall colours transform the Côte d'Or into a photographer's paradise. The Hospices de Beaune wine auction in mid-November attracts international wine professionals. Cool temperatures and autumn light create ideal conditions for walking tours and countryside exploration.
Winter (December-February) brings cold temperatures but also magical holiday markets, especially the atmospheric Christmas market that transforms Place de la Libération with wooden chalets, warming drinks, and regional products. Winter represents the season for hearty Burgundian cuisine—boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, and rich stews that pair perfectly with powerful red wines. Hotel rates drop significantly, and museums and restaurants operate without crowds.
Why Dijon Deserves More Time
Most visitors allocate Dijon a day or two while focusing on wine villages, but the city rewards longer stays. Unlike pure tourist destinations that exhaust their interest quickly, Dijon operates as a real, living city where authentic French life continues alongside visitor attractions.
The combination of world-class cultural institutions, exceptional gastronomy, wine heritage, and architectural beauty creates a layered destination that reveals more with extended exploration. A week based in Dijon allows deep dives into the museum, leisurely wine touring, cooking classes, market shopping, and the simple pleasure of living like a local in one of France's most livable cities.
Perhaps most importantly, Dijon has avoided the over-tourism that plagues more famous French destinations. You can still find uncrowded museums, restaurant tables without advance reservations, and streets where locals outnumber visitors—increasingly rare qualities in popular French destinations. For more information about planning your visit, explore the official Dijon tourism website.
This former ducal capital proves that France's most rewarding experiences often lie beyond the obvious choices, in places where history, culture, and contemporary life blend seamlessly into destinations worth savouring slowly.